Cars Comp

1. Raise the hood and locate the oil filter housing. Remove the retaining bolt from the top of the housing with a 13mm socket wrench. Pull the cap up and off the housing. Remove the oil filter from the housing; it will still contain oil so have a container close-by to place it into.
2. Install the larger rubber O-Ring supplied with the new filter under the oil filter housing cap. Then install the small aluminum washer under the oil filter housing bolt.
3. Insert the new oil filter into the filter housing. Replace the oil filter housing cap and tighten the bolt.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and allow the engine to cool down. Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support the front end with jack stands. Crawl underneath the vehicle and locate the transmission drain pan. The drain pan is in the middle of the engine undercarriage.
2. Place a layer of newspaper on the ground underneath the transmission drain pan. Position the catch pan underneath the drain plug. Use a ratchet with a 5 mm hex socket to remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain into the catch pan. Reinsert the drain plug when finished.
3. Use a number 30 Torx socket to remove the six bolts holding the drain pan in place. Carefully lower the pan and tip it towards the catch pan to drain away any remaining fluid.
4. Inspect the drain pan and the condition of the old transmission fluid. Metal particulates in the bottom of the pan or in the fluid indicate signs of impending transmission failure. Wipe down the drain pan and bolts with a shop towel.
5. Pull the transmission filter out of its mounting area inside the transmission. Tip the filter towards the catch pan to drain any remaining fluid. Insert the new transmission filter into the transmission.
6. Locate the oval torque converter housing ahead of the transmission pan. Have a partner turn the engine with a 27 mm socket and a long breaker bar applied to the crankshaft pulley nut until the drain plug becomes visible through the open slot. Position the catch pan under the torque converter and use a 5 mm hex socket and a socket extension to remove the drain plug. Allow the fluid to completely drain and reinsert the drain plug.
7. Inspect the drain pan gasket for any signs of aging and wear. If needed, replace the drain pan gasket with a new one. Otherwise, reuse the gasket when reinstalling the drain pan. Place the gasket around the lip of the drain pan and lift the pan into place. Insert and torque the six retaining bolts to 106 inch-pounds.
8. Remove the catch pan and newspaper from underneath the vehicle. Seal the pan and set it aside for proper disposal. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. Open the hood and locate the transmission tube near the firewall on the left side of the engine compartment. Place a long neck funnel into the tube and pour 6 liters of Mercedes Benz automatic transmission fluid into the tube.
9. Start the engine and take the vehicle on a short drive. This will allow the transmission to come up to operating temperature. Place the vehicle in Park and use an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of the transmission drain pan. The temperature should read around 80 degrees Celsius.
10. Use the Mercedes Benz dipstick tool to measure the fluid level while the vehicle is idling. Insert the dipstick through the transmission tube until it hits the bottom of the transmission drain pan and then remove the dipstick. The amount of fluid inside the transmission should be within the 80 degrees Celsius mark on the dipstick. If the fluid level is below the bottom fill mark, add more transmission fluid as needed. If the fluid level is above the top fill mark, immediately drain the excess fluid.
11. Dispose of the old transmission fluid at the nearest automotive parts outlet or repair shop. Most shops will dispose of the fluid free of charge.

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1. Make sure the vehicle is parked on a flat level surface. Ensure that the car is in gear or in Park. Use a lug wrench to loosen the lug bolts for the wheels. Raise the car with a floor jack and lower it onto jack stands at all four corners. The jacking points will differ depending on the model of BMW that you are working on. Consult your owners manual for the proper jacking points. Remove the wheels and set them aside.
2. Clean the brake rotor, the caliper and any nearby parts with brake cleaner and a clean, dry rag, ensuring that there is no oil or residue on the brake parts. Loosen the two large bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier. These are located on the upper and lower part of the caliper facing the wheel arch. On most newer BMWs these bolts are Torx-shaped bolts that are removed with a star-shaped bit. Some older models use a normal bolt. Slide the caliper off of the rotor and support it with a piece of wire or on a platform while you work to avoid damaging the soft brake line.
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket on. These are located on the top and bottom of the bracket facing the wheel arch. Set the bracket aside. Remove the set screw that holds the rotor on. If it is frozen and will not loosen easily, spray penetrating fluid on it and let it soak in. The set screw is removed with a small Allen bit on BMWs. Make sure you use the properly sized tool to avoid stripping the screw. Pull the rotor straight off of the hub, tapping it from behind if needed to free it. Spray the hub mounting surface with brake cleaner and wipe it down.
4. Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner and a clean rag. Avoid touching it with your bare hands. Slide it onto the hub and reinstall the set screw. Tighten the set screw firmly. Bolt the caliper carrier back on and tighten the bolts. On most BMWs, the outer brake pad fastens to the slots in the caliper carrier and the other one clips into the piston in the caliper. If they have fallen out, reinstall them and slide the caliper and brake pads over the rotor. Tighten the bolts that hold the caliper on. Repeat the above steps for the other three corners of your BMW. Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Pump the brakes until the pedal feels firm.

1. Locate the air filter cover on the top of your BMW 330 engine. It will be a black cover, secured by seven torx screws. You should see it near the center of the engine on top with a black flex hose running from the cover to the engine.
2. Remove torx screws with torx screwdriver from top cover of air filter. Lift the cover up. It will not come all the way out, just enough to give clearance to remove the air filter.
3. Unclip the flex hose from the air cleaner to provide room for removal. You will see a pin inserted into the air filter. Pull the pin back and remove the filter from the air cleaner.
4. Replace the air filter with a new filter by pulling the pin back and reinserting the new filter. Replace the flex hose on the front of the air cleaner.
5. Place the cover back on the air cleaner and secure it with torx screws.

1. Turn off the car completely and put on your safety glasses and gloves.
2. Open the hood, and locate the bulbs you need to change. The low beam bulb will be closer to the outside of the vehicle, and the high beams are closer to the inside, right behind the light cover near the engine.
3. Turn the bulb holder to the left, and pull it straight off, and then unscrew the burned-out bulb. Put it somewhere out of the way.
4. Twist the new bulb carefully into place using a cloth or clean gloves, without touching it directly.
5. Replace the bulb holder and tighten it into place. If more bulbs need replacing, repeat this process as necessary.

1. Make sure the car ignition is turned off. Remove the keys from the ignition to be sure.
2. Set the jump starter power switch to the "Off" position.
3. Connect the positive (red) cable of the jump starter to the positive clamp that is connected to the terminal of the battery to be removed. Connect it so as to not interfere with the loosening and removal of the battery clamp from the terminal.
4. Connect the negative (black) clamp to the car’s chassis or a solid non-moving metal component or body part.
5. Turn the jump starter power switch to "On."
6. Using the wrench, loosen the bolt that holds the positive clamp on the terminal of the battery youre replacing. Slide the cable clamp off the terminal and place it away from the battery. Make sure the clamp does not come in contact with any grounded metal parts of the vehicle. Wrap it in a towel or rag to provide insulation from surrounding parts.
7. Loosen the negative clamp and remove it from the terminal in the same manner.
8. Firmly grasp the old battery and lift it from the vehicle.
9. Position the new battery in the vehicle battery area.
10. Position the positive cable clamp on the positive terminal of the new battery. Carefully tighten the clamp hardware with the wrench.
11. Position and connect the negative clamp to its terminal in the same way.
12. Turn the jump starter power switch to "Off."
13. Disconnect the jump starter clamps from the battery terminals and clamps.

1. Pull back the trunk liner to access the upper shock mounting nuts. Use a socket and ratchet to remove the two nuts that hold the top of the shock to the body of the car.
2. Using the floor jack, raise the rear of the car to gain access to the lower shock mounting bolt. Leave the tire in slight contact with the ground. From under the car, remove the large bolt that holds the lower part of the shock to the trailing arm.
3. Remove the shock from the car and place it a work bench or on a flat stable surface. Remove the nut that holds the upper strut mount onto the shock. Use a pair of Vise-Grips on the end of the shock to keep it from turning while the nut is removed. Remove the upper strut mount.
4. Install the old strut mount onto the new shock in the reverse of removal, ensuring that the washers and bushings are oriented correctly. It is recommended to install new mounts when changing the shocks.
5. Install the new shock by first loosely bolting it to the trailing arm with the bolt. Do not tighten the bolt. Maneuver the upper part of the shock into place so that the two studs slide through the holes in the bodywork.
6. Install and tighten the two nuts that hold the upper end of the shock in place. Tighten the lower bolt to 57 ft.-lbs. with a torque wrench. Repeat for the other side.

1. Insert the key into the ignition. Turn the ignition switch to ON without starting the engine.
2. Press the BC button on the end of the headlight arm.
3. Press and hold the RESET button below the odometer until the oil service light appears.
4. Press the BC button. A RESET message appears on the instrument panel.
5. Press and hold the BC button until the oil service light turns off.

1. First, select the new headlights you want to install. The Audi TT can use a high-intensity discharge (HID) bulb or an light-emitting diode (LED) package. Choose which one you want from an auto parts store.
2. To access the headlights, you must pop the trunk and remove the headlights from behind the casings. Open the trunk and find the back of the headlight wires. These should feed right into the middle of the headlight assembly.
3. Loosen the securing screws around the headlight connection. The connection is a small plastic piece at the end of the wires. Some twisting and maneuvering may be needed to get at the screws. Loosen all the screws but do not completely remove them.
4. Once the screws are loosened, twist the headlight connector until it pulls freely out of the headlamp case. The bulb and connector will come out together.
5. Release the headlight bulb from the connector by depressing the clip or attachment (some models may have different types of clips) and pull out the bulb.
6. Insert the new bulbs by sliding them into the connectors. Replace the bulbs in the headlamp. Turn and lock them in place behind the screws, then tighten the screws to secure them.